That being said, growing native is of course the best way to go, which means, in the desert southwest, we want to grow things that are more native or naturally acclimatized to where we live. Cactus and succulents are going to fill the bill there quite nicely, but that’s not all that you can have if you live in a desert environment. Cactus are pretty and very colorful, but only at certain times of the year,but you do have some other choices. Some plants are more than hardy in the desert area and still offer broad splashes of color and don’t require a lot effort on your part or a great deal of water to keep them going.

One of the most beautiful of desert plants and one that doesn’t take a lot of fussing is the Arizona yellowbell. These hardy shrubs will grow upward of 6 feet tall and are covered with gorgeous … yes, you guessed it, yellow bell shaped flowers that are brilliant and beautiful. They are also somewhat toxic so they aren’t an idea indoor plant but for the outside desert world they are amazing.

The African sumac tree is another excellent choice for the high desert areas. Growing to quite tall heights, they aren’t native to our desert area but do in fact fit in well and are a sturdy choice for those who want a hardy tree that will survive the desert heat without demanding a vast amount of water to do so.

Among your other choices in the Arizona, New Mexico or Texas area are the low to the ground sedum type succulent as well as the very tall agave and even the prickly pear cactus. Cactus plants are incredibly beautiful in a desert garden. They offer bright colors and unique textures to the garden without requiring a lot of work on your part or a lot of water. Yucca and Joshua trees are also an incredibly good choice for those desert garden areas, but you can grow cactus in areas that are not naturally desert as well and you’re not constrained to just rock and cacti if you’re a desert dweller.

In fact, not only do cactus fit in well into the west in a desert garden, but they also fit in well in some more northerly climates, requiring low water, low maintenance and if you pot them and then put the pots outdoors all summer, they will impart beautiful color to your outside world and then can be brought inside when the snow flies or it gets a great deal colder in your area.

Wildflowers in the Mojave Desert

Cactus plants aren’t just for a desert garden any more. They can add color, texture and beauty to any garden anywhere with the right consideration of which ones to put into your gardening area.

Certain types of plants will make an attractive lure for certain types of butterflies and if you plant those the butterflies won’t be able to resist, regardless of whether you have a large area, or a small one.

Butterflies will come by the hordes to your garden to sit and sip on the sweet nectar of the plants that you’ve placed there.

Using this kind of thinking, a butterfly garden can be incorporated into nearly any landscape, climate or a design in your yard that is currently in place.

The most important part of your garden, won’t be the landscaping itself, but rather, the kinds of plants that you place to attract the butterflies, things that will serve as a food source.

Along the way you’re going to be helping to save the environment, because much of what attracts butterflies has been phased out or is in fact in danger because of the urbanization of most areas, where the wild blooms and flowers are being removed to make way for home landscaping.

As factories and homes are on the rise, natural habitats for butterflies, which can be as attractive as they are useful, have been primarily removed, or become much scarcer.

It is easy to raise the number and types of butterflies that you see in your garden or yard simply by planting the plants that they like to feed on and plants on which they like to lay eggs.
Caterpillar friendly plants are also an important aspect of butterfly gardens..

YOu are going to need various plants that will cycle with the seasons, some that work well when placed together to make sure that the garden will be blooming from the early part of spring, to as late in the fall as your climate permits.

A butterfly garden can be any size at all, even down to a window box on your sill, or as great as an entire field of untended wildflowers left to grow at will on your property.
WHen you begin to plan your garden try to stay within the realm of plants that occur in nature in your area..
Things such as milkweed will be great draws to nearly any type of butterfly, however another tip might be, to learn what butterflies are most common in your area. What will naturally be drawn to your area is what you might like to plant for when choosing plants to incorporate into your garden.

Butterflies don’t need anything fancy or expensive. Just an open, sun-filled area; some flowers, for adults; some food sources, for caterpillars; shelter; puddles; and rocks. You might consider planting an herb garden if you enjoy herbs – many butterfly species do too.

Reserving a section of your yard for native flowering plants and for weeds like dandelion, nettle, and milkweed should also help guarantee a good variety of butterflies. It’s best to avoid using any pesticides at all.

One note for dedicated gardeners who may be appalled at the idea of actually inviting caterpillars in for lunch: very few butterfly species cause harm to garden plants. If they do become a nuisance – for instance, if cabbage whites are decimating your nasturtiums – picking the larvae off by hand is a simple task.

About puddles. Butterflies can’t drink from birdbaths or other open water. But give them a damp spot of wet sand or dirt and they’ll often flock around it. In some species, young bachelor butterflies most commonly exhibit this “puddling” behavior – perhaps the equivalent of visiting the local pub after work.

If you want to be more specific, here are a few plants, and the kinds of butterflies they will attract.

Alfalfa-Eastern black swallowtail, orange sulphur, dogface, large wood nymph

Aster- Checkered white, common & orange sulphur, question mark, painted ladies, red admiral, buckeye

Black-eyed Susan-Great spangled fritillary, pearly crescentspot

Butterfly Bush- Swallowtails, mourning cloak, comma anglewing, painted ladies, red admiral

Daisy- Pearly crescentspot, red admiral, queen

Dandelion-Cabbage shite, common sulphur, comma anglewing, red admiral

Dogbane- Spicebush swallowtail, checkered white, common & orange sulphur, gray hairstreak, spring azure, pearly crescentspot, mourning cloak, American painted lady, buckeye

Goldenrod-Common & orange sulphur, gray hairstreak, American painted lady, red admiral, viceroy Lantana Swallowtails, cabbage white, Gulf fritillary

Lupine- Common blue

Marigold-Milbert’s tortoiseshell, American painted lady

Milkweed-Swallowtails, checkered & cabbage white, common & orange sulphur, gray hairstreak, spring azure, pearly crescentspot, common blue, great spangled fritillary, question mark, mourning cloak, painted ladies, red admiral, viceroy, monarch, queen

Mint- Swallowtails, cabbage whie, gray hairstreak, painted ladies, red admiral, monarch, large wood nymph

Privet- Spring azure, painted ladies, red-spotted purple

Purple Coneflower-Silvery blue, great spangled fritillary

Queen Anne’s Lace-Eastern black swallowtail, gray hairstreak

Red Clover-Cabbage white, great spangled fritillary, painted ladies, red admiral

Scabiosa-Painted ladies

Sweet Pea-Gray hairstreak

Thistle-Swallowtails, dogface, Gulf fritillary, pearly crescentspot, Milbert’s tortoiseshell, American painted lady, red admiral, viceroy, monarch

Verbena-Great spangled fritillary

Winter Cress-Checkered white, gray hairstreak, spring azure, pearly crecentspot

You can order many of these plants from one of my favorite suppliers of native plants, High Country Gardens.

The adult butterflies will stay for longer periods of time if they find plants on which they feel at ease laying eggs as well as nectar plants for food.
If possible, and it won’t make you too crazed, try to permit your lawn to grow dandelions and some clover which are both plants that butterflies are drawn to.
Minimize the use of pesticided and herbicides, both of which can harm not only the ground and the plants but also the butterflies themselves.
Flowers which are provided in sunny places such as around a rock wall or a fenced area will attract more as they will want to sit and bask in the sun as they eat, while also having some bush and shrub areas to provide shade in the heat of the day and to protect them from wind and rain.
As you watch you will see the elaborate routines that butterflies have. Males will drive others away, while females choose so carefully where to lay their eggs.
All it all it is well worth your time and an extra dandelion in the yard isn’t it?
If you want more information on Butterfly gardening, pay a visit to the Butterfly Garden Site

If you are interested in Free Milkweed Seeds, they are available to you from LiveMonarch.org which is a not for profit foundation attempting to see milkweed and native plants put back to increase butterfly habitat.
The seeds will be sent to you if you send a SASE to
Live Monarch Foundation – Seeds
3003-C8 Yamato Road #1015
Boca Raton, Florida 33434

Your donations  to Live Monarch are welcomed and are tax deductible

The photos you see below are of Cawdor Castle Gardens, and show what is planted today, which is, historically, according to a castle worker, what the gardens looked like. Any part of these gardens could be reproduced to offer you your own small medieval nook in a yard or garden.

There was much more of a distinction made between the potential use of the plants, and this often determined where they were planted.

These uses included kitchen and seasoning, vegetables and salads, food dyes, aromatic, decorative, dyes, strewing, brewing, medicinal, and magical/religious.

Different parts of the plant (roots, petals, bark, seeds, juice, or leaves) were used for different medicinal problems. (Depending upon the ailment, the plants were used for tisanes (teas), syrups, poultices, ointments, distilled waters, pills, or conserves.
Many mixed gardens existed, and some pleasure gardens. Depending on what type garden you are seeking, here are a few ideas for you.

Lawns/Flowery meadows

Albertus Magnus was an admirer of a fine lawn and wrote” “For the sight is in now way so pleasantly refreshed as by fine and close grass kept short.”

Most writers recommend digging out the original ‘waste’ plants, killing the seeds in the soil by flooding with boiling water, then laying out the lawn with turves laid in and pounded well.

Another writer recommends mowing them twice a year; lawnmowing would have been done with scythes or primitive shears.
I personally recommend no such thing as the typical today method of poisoning the natural grasses that are growing today, including clover and replacing with simple turf.
Nothing has such a wide appeal as different plants in the grass of your lawn.

Raised Beds & Sunken Beds
It appears that gardening was a thing widely discussed and written about in earlier times as it is today.

“For instance beds could be raised and edged with boards or woven panels of willow to improve drainage, just as Columella recommended” (Hobhouse). Parkinson suggests edging your beds with either live plants or dead stuff such as tiles, lead, sheep shank bones, or boards.
The sunken beds or raised beds appear to have been widely used, primarily to promote irrigation or drainage. Many of these would follow a square layout with small streams or creeks flowing through them.

Trellises and Topiaries

Roses, grapes and grapevines and in some cases rosemary, were grown on trellises while carnations were trellised in pots or urns to preven them from falling forward. Many varieties of vines were grown in the same fashion in the medieval garden.

In some cases, lattice was covered with climbing plants to be used as garden walls to provide privacy, and were fastened to the back of a seating bench, or used as an archway.

In the latter part of this period, topiaries begin to appear, and one treatise on gardening in 1599, speaking of Hampton court tells about them.
“There were all manner of shapes, men and women, half men and half horse, sirens, serving-maids with baskets, French lilies and delicate crenellations all round made from dry twigs bound together and the aforesaid ever green quick-set shrubs, or entirely of rosemary, all true to the life, and so cleverly and amusingly interwoven, mingled and grown together, trimmed and arranged picture-wise that their equal would be difficult to find.”

Trees
Trees were widely used and planted along walls, or placed into the orchard in a geometric fashion.
Some kinds, such as walnut were avoided, but fruit trees were
added to most gardens.

Coppiced trees were used quite often,larger trees such as beeches, were cut down at ground level or a little above, and the stumps allowed to sprout suckers.

Plants & trees in pots

Paintings and sketches of the gardens of the time show us pots filled with plants in many outdoor and indoor homes,
Gillyflowers in pots appear to have been especially popular in this time span, and were used both indoors and out.
Potted plants and trees are shown usually placed on top of grassy beds in gardens and entryways. Its assumed that these would have been perennial plants of perhaps small fruit trees trained to the pot.

Ceramic pots would have been the order of the day in this time period, and what we see in the pictures seem to be largely urns, or wide mouth pots or crock type jars.
There is a good article on medieval container gardening, at: http://www.serenadariva.com/SCAGardeningPages/index.htm

Ladies’ Gardens
Supposedly, castles and manors often had gardens of pleasure for walking in, with seats, private nooks screened from the wind for sitting, flowery meads for sitting and/or playing games. We see many of these in pictures of young ladies and pictures of the Virgin and Child.

Large gardens/parks of the very rich:
Parks often included multiple structures, many water features, and, at least if you listened to Crescenzi, were stocked with wild beasts such as deer and rabbit.
From several sources we can read of those gardens, and the visions they draw from us are delightful.

“Castles, manors and great monastic establishments would have both small herbers for useful and decorative plants and also grander enclosed areas in which walks could be shaded by trees and where there were artificial pools for fish as well as natural streams. . . Geoffrey de Montbray. . . came back to Normandy to sow acorns and grow oaks, beeches and other forest trees inside a park enclosed by a double ditch and a palisade” (Hobhouse)

The park at Hesdin, northern France, created in 1288, included:

“a menagerie, aviaries, fishponds, beautiful orchards, an enclosed garden named Le Petit Paradis, and facilities for tournaments. The guests were beckoned across a bridge by animated rope-operated monkey statutes (kitted up each year with fresh badger-fur coats) to a banqueting pavilion which was set amongst pools.”

“Of the gardens of royal personages and powerful and wealthy lords. And inasmuch as wealthy persons can by their riches and power obtain such things as please them and need only science and art to create all they desire. For them, therefore, let a great meadow be chosen, arranged, and ordered, as here shall be directed. Let it be a place where the pleasant winds blow and where there are fountains of waters; it should be twenty ‘Journaux’ or more in size according to the will of the Lord and it should be enclosed with lofty walls. Let there be in some part a wood of divers trees where the wild beasts may find a refuge. In another part let there be a costly pavilion where the king and his queen or the lord and lady may dwell, when they wish to escape from wearisome occupations and where they may solace themselves.”
“Let there be shade and let the windows of the pavilion look out upon the garden but not exposed to the burning rays of the sun. Let fish-pools be made and divers fishes placed therein. Let there also be hares, rabbits, deer and such-like wild animals that are not beasts of prey. And in the trees near the pavilion let great cages be made and therein place partridges, nightingales, blackbirds, linnets, and all manner of singing birds. Let all be arranged so that the beasts and the birds may easily be seen from the pavilion. Let there also be made a pavilion with rooms and towers wholly made of trees…”
Petrus Crescentiis, Opus Ruralium Commodorum. 1305.

Plants:

THE NINTH CENTURY GARDEN OF THE
‘CAPITULARE DE VILLES’ OF CHARLEMAGNE (ca.800)”lists all the suggested plants from the Capitulare.
It is said that what is necessary in pots:

Basil, rosemary (supposedly reintroduced to England by Queen Phillipa), marjoram, gilliflowers, others.
Herbs:
Mints and fennel (Roman de Rose), hyssop, balm, sweet marjoram (introduced in the 14th c to England), parsley and sage, ‘other herbs’.

Charles Estienne in his Agriculture et Maison Rustique recommends the cultivation of many rows of scented herbs, ‘both for the reserve of your scented garden, for your hedges, and for your winter stews;’ for example, sage and hyssop, thyme, lavender, rosemary, marjoram, costmary, basil, balm, ‘and one bed of camomile to make seats and labyrinths, which they call Daedalus.’

Vegetables:
Coleworts (cabbage, kale), leafbeet, pasnips turnips, and skirrets, sometimes beans and peas (grown mostly as fielc crops), garlic, chives, bulb onion, green leaved onion, watermelons, fennel, leeks, parsley, Salad plants such as borage and langdebeef.

Hills’ The Gardener’s Labyrinth lists (for a kitchen or physic garden):

Colewort, Beete, Arage [Orach], Sperage [Asparagus], Spinage [Spinach], Sorrell, Pimpernell, Lovage, Buglosse, Marigolde, Parsely, Tyme, Mints and Holihoke [Hollyhock], Mallows, Artochoke, Endive, Succory, Lettuce, Purselane, Chervils, Smallage [Wild Celery], Targon, Cresses, Bucks horne, Strawberry, Mustard seed, Leeks and Cives [Chives], Onion, Garlike, Scallion, Squill Onion, Saffron, Navews, Rape, Turnips, Radish (long and round), Parsnips, Carrets, Poppie, Cucumber, Gourd, Pompons, Mellons, musk Mellons, Blessed Thistle, Angelica, Velerian, Bitony, Lovage, Elecampane.

Vines:
Grapes, roses, jasmine, ivy. Hill suggests mellons or cucumbers in addition to vines (grapevine) for covering pergolas, and rosemary, red roses, briony, cucumber, gourd, jasmine, ‘set to grow upright’ — that is up poles, I think. He also mentions the musk rose, the damask rose, and the privet tree.

Flowers:
Roses, White madonna lilies, violets, florentine irises and sweet flags, borage, daisies, lavender, calendula, poppy, etc. Neckham also lists mandrake, daffodils, chicory, calendula (pot marygold), mugwort, feverfew, houseleek, stickadove. (Fifteenth century and later, says Hobhouse, you would see pinks, clove carnations, , stoechas lavender [aka stickadove], and heartsease). Hobhouse says that myrtle in a northern context meant bog myrtle, in the south apparently it would be the aromatic (Greek?) myrtle.

The Unicorn Tapestries include campion, bistot, orchis, lords & ladies, violas, sweetrocket, carnations, white lilies, holy thistle, leopard’s bane, stock and lady’s mantle. (Hobhouse)

The flowerbeds of the gardens of the Hotel de Pol in the 1370s included ‘roses, rosemary, lavender, wallflowers, marjoram, and sage as well as strawberries’, when it was refurbished in 1398, ‘grape vines. . . pear and apple trees, cherries and plums as well as eight “green bay trees”‘ as well as roses, lily bulbs, and flag irises. (Hobhouse)
Shrubs & Hedges
Germander, Box, Roses, Lavender, Rosemary, Privet and others.

Crescenzi’s gardens of the middle size should be ‘surrounded by ditches and hedges of thorns or roses. . . . in warm places make a hedge of pomegranates and in cold places of nuts or plums and quinces’. Hill gives directions for creating a quickset hedge using seeds of Briers (Eglantine roses), brambles, the white Thorne, Gooseberry and Barberry trees, mixed with vetch-meal and smeared into old untwisted rope, thus making a sort of 16th century seed-tape. For short hedges/edgings inside the garden Parkinson suggests thrift, germander, hyssop, marjoram, savory, thyme, lavender cotton, juniper, yew, and box; for larger hedges Hill and Parkison suggest privet, sweetbriar, white thorn, roses; also lavender, rosemary, sage, southernwood, lavender cotton, or Cornell (cherry trees).

The visitor to Hampton Court (1599) describes it: “The hedges and surrounds were of hawthorn, bush firs, ivy, roses, juniper, holly, English or common elm, box and other shrubs, very gay and attractive.”

Thomas Hill gives instructions for making a sort of ‘seed tape’ for hedges, by slightly unplaiting an old rope, and mixing shrub seeds with tar and spreading it into the rope. Mixed hedges where shrubs of quicker growth were mingled with slower growing ones in order to provide a succession growth, were often recommended.

Trees:

Orchard trees that give fruit (apples, pears, plums); tender perennials such as bay, orange, pomegranate in the south and later in period, Olives and date palms in the south. Nut trees such as chestnut and almond. Pine and Cypress. Of non-fruiting trees, linden or lime trees were popular in northern Europe; William Stephen in 1180 mentions elms, oaks, ash, and willow “along watercourses and to make shady walks” (says Hobhouse); the Roman de la Rose also mentions fir, and oriental plane trees.

Many of these would have been placed so that privacy was assured, some in the knot styles of the older courts.
To make your own small medieval style ladies garden, or herb garden would be a small amount of time spent in the planning and some interesting work in the building, but it would provoke constant comment and no small amount of pleasure for you when seated among the same gardens that existed in medieval times.

Beautiful flowers interesting foliage and hardy rocks and mosses are delicate and subtle adaptations that nature makes to the very cool usually alpine like environments.

Rock gardens are rarely large in size because they are not always easily managed and maintained and because of this factor they are perfect for filling small spaces, for growing in the city or suburbs with smaller gardens and yards, and because you can grow a wide array of plants and flowers in this compact space.

Once they have become established they are very tolerant to life without a great deal of water and will help you to need less water and also less labor.

The one place they will not do well is in a very hot and humid climate and will be, in those areas, frustrating and difficult to deal with.

Sometimes choice rock plants will survive for a few seasons, only to be done in by a week of high temperatures.
The biggest real consideration that can influence the design of rock gardens is space.

In larger spaces, the primary reason for one is to avail yourself of the natural aspects of your property, and to create a sprawling, naturalistic rock garden that means you don’t have to attempt to clear or mow that area, however some, such as myself, simply love the look and consider it a sort of home turf,having been raised in a national forest..

Livng as I do now, with a smaller area and a drier warmer climate, I’m going to have to make myself content with a small raised bed based on something I saw on the net, which gave me a very good idea for a rock garden.
It will fit neatly into a nook in the side of the yard, and bring a touch of northern Pennsylvania to Nebraska.

IT will fit nicely into my lot, won’t be in my way when having to mow and it won’t require a lot of maintenance as I am putting it beneath a large tree in the center of what is a shady area, with some good soil and reasonable drainage.

To begin with, just cover a circular area of ground with some black plastic or newspaper and then ring it with rocks of your choosing, and fill the area with soil that is a mixture of sandy peat or compost type soil.

The second step will be to begin adding a few rocks, and then start on placing the plants.

The third step in the journey toward your completed rock garden will be to add a few plants now, prior to adding more rocks and then more plant materials.

While it won’t have the alpine feel of things at home, neither will it wilt and wither for lack of cool air.
For many people a consideration is color, which includes not only the flowers and foliage, but also the rocks.
In this area, granite and river rock is rare, but sandstone is very plentiful and easy to find.

This will absolutely affect the color scheme of the florals in the area.

These photos I found online will give you a very good idea of what it is that you will need to do to accomplish this type of rock garden in your own small space.

This can be done on as small or as large a scale as you wish it to be.

If you are, as I am, based in the mid west, then sandstone is going to be plentiful and easy to find.
you will want to base your plants coloration on something that will work well with the reddish hues that it produces and so adding reds, russets, silver tones and some yellows and whites will work remarkably well.

Some shrubbery such as those which will stand up to warmer temperature and drier air are also in order.

Above here is a very simple design for a rock garden that features hardy and long lived plants which are perennial in nature. Prickly Poppy and Tulips as well as Narcissus are very hardy plants and will grow in a wide variety of areas.

If you are interested in building a rock garden there is a remarkable plan for one here, as well as direction on the plants to grow in it located at The Brooklyn Botanical Gardens website.

All it takes is a bit of preplanning and some imagination.

Before you begin to grow your garden, be sure that you know how much your balcony or deck is rated to hold and that the addition of the plants will not take you over the top of that weight limit prior to placing then on the balcony.

There are a few things besides weight that need to be taken into consideration on a balcony or patio garden, not the least of which is sunlight.

Growing small fruit trees or vegetables takes a good bit of sunlight. You will want to make sure that where you place your vegetables or trees will receive about 5-6 hours of sunlight per day. This means that what you choose to plant will depend in a large part on your patio or balcony’s orientation to the sun.

Tomatoes and beans need a good bit of sunlight and will require either grow lamps, or a warm light filled balcony facing south or west, while lettuce or root vegetables such as carrots or small potatoes will be perfectly happy on a south or east facing balcony which gets only limited amounts of sunlight daily.

If you have a larger balcony, or patio, you can create an outdoor “room” on your space by using hanging plants above and small plants or trees below to make a wall of greenery.

If you choose to grow climbers on your balcony, you will want to secure trellises to the walls, or to secure the plants to the wall using wire or twine so they are able to resist the wind shear.

For durable planters that will resist rot and last a long time, use vinyl, or, old halved whisky casks or barrels. These are available at any nursery or many hardware stores.Be sure to drill holes in the bottom of them and line the first couple inches with small gravel to assure adequate drainage of the plants.

If you choose to build your own wooden boxes or raised platforms, be certain that the wood you use is untreated, as some treated lumbers can, when they become hot, give off fumes that will damage the plant roots.

The decking will dry perfectly well after a rain or plant watering, provided it is well sealed and has room to air below it, so the water on the deck or balcony should not be a real concern.
In many areas you can leave your garden out on the balcony even in wintertime with a few precautions. If the climate where you live is particularly intemperate, cover your clay or glass pots with plastic bags and set them on wood blocks in the winter. This will prevent the heaves and freezing that will crack your pots.

How its done is to take a l.arge plastic bag, fill it with straw, packing peanuts or sawdust and place it over the pot to insulate the plant roots and the pot from the heavy temperature changes.

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They are among the most unique and beautiful of the plant kingdom
and growing them will assure that your garden gains constant attention since they are not always seen in some areas.
Bromeliads aren’t commonly grown but they are lovely.

Inside or out, if your idea is to build something unique in your small space, then bromeliads are the way to go.

They have a remarkable method of using the scales that are on their
leaves which are actually an organ, to draw water directly from
the air.

Bromeliads can be, much like any other plant species, remarkably
easy, or quite difficult to grow depending on the type that you
select.

To grow them, you will want to choose a very porous potting medium,
not normal soil, and keep it continuously damp by misting it. If
you choose plants of the tillandsia variety, they will enjoy and
greatly benefit from a weekly soak with water.

You can help them to bloom by putting them in a closed plastic bag
with a few ripe apples or a banana. The ripening fruit fumes will
actually stimulate the production of flowers.

Removing the offsets, or the lateral, pups, will assure that the
plant propagates as these grow into new plants, while the parent
plant will eventually die regardless of your care of it. remove
them when they have reached about a third the size of the parent
plant, and house them in a porous medium amd within a month they
will root.

You can also put some bromeliads together on a large branch that
has covered itself with moss, and secure them in place with florist
wire, and they will root and grow there. Make sure that you keep
them evenly moist by misting, and apply plant fertilizer of the
leaf variety once in a while..

This is a dramatic and effective way to grow and display your
bromeliads and the bonus is that it doesn’t require ground space, only a mnedium sized tree, which puts your garden in a tree, not only in the unique category, but also in the small spaces ideas category as well..

If you choose to grow your bromeliads inside the home, one way to
assure their continued good health, as well as your own is to use a
cool mist humidifier in the room with the plants.